Eight days, two wheels, and countless memories along northern Portugal and Spain’s Atlantic coast.

The Day Before

A week-long bikepacking trip demands careful preparation. We reserved hotel rooms and confirmed they could store or park our bikes. We mapped our route and did a test pack to make sure we had all the essentials, everything fit properly, and our ride and rain gear stayed on top for easy access.

On our last tour in the Algarve, we carried three panniers. This time, I opted for two each, giving us four total — enough extra room for snacks we might pick up along the way. The lighter load also made it much easier to find items without digging through jam-packed bags.

Day 1 – Braga to Viana do Castelo

Braga and Viana greeted us with extra-moist conditions in the morning, so we decided to wait until after lunch to start riding. That choice paid off. We encountered a brief shower lasting only 15–20 minutes halfway through the ride. Starting later meant we didn’t roll into Viana until almost 6 p.m.

We checked into our usual hotel and then headed to our favorite Indian restaurant. Afterward, we relaxed in the pool. The water felt a bit cold, but the jets worked wonders on lingering soreness — typical at the start of a long bikepacking journey.

Day 2 – Viana do Castelo to Caminha

The morning brought a light mist that stayed with us almost the entire ride to Caminha. As we left Viana, we had to haul our bikes up a flight of stairs to get under the highway. We removed the panniers, carried the bikes, and reattached the bags — not my favorite task, especially in light rain. Looking back, riding the highway and rejoining the route later would have been easier.

The silver lining came in the form of a quiet road overlooking the city. The views would have been stunning if the clouds and mist hadn’t wrapped the landscape in fog. Rain gear kept us dry, though condensation built up on our skin, leaving us almost as wet as if we’d been caught in a downpour. At least we stayed warm.

Despite the weather and route challenges, we laughed and enjoyed the ride. Cycling gives my mind room to wander, reflect, and feel free — one of the reasons I find it so therapeutic.

In Caminha, we treated ourselves to pizza and a pitcher of sangria for dinner. Our accommodations were just a five-minute walk from the center and included a two-bedroom apartment — more space than we needed, but perfect for storing the bikes indoors. A vibrant mural of a peregrino (Portuguese for pilgrim) painted on the building’s exterior felt like a fitting welcome to the adventure ahead.

Day 3 – Caminha to Baiona

Breakfast brought a fun surprise — we ran into our friends Mohamad and Jen, founders of the Viana Pickleball Club and fellow Caminha locals. After a quick chat, we set out to find a water taxi to take us and our bikes across the Minho River to Spain.

“Popeye,” our boat captain, lived up to his name. He zipped us across the river in just two minutes, bikes and all. His crewmate helped load and unload them — a small gesture that made the morning even better.

The weather was flawless, the ocean views endless, and the miles flew by. By 2 p.m., we rolled into Baiona and celebrated with craft beer at an eclectic little bar decorated with irons, sewing machines, and other random household relics. Odd, but somehow the mix of 80s music and vintage clutter worked.

Dinner featured scallops and a seafood empanada — rich, local flavors we never tire of. Our pension turned out to be a gem: a spacious compound with both hotel rooms and long-term apartments. The residents included a lively Yorkshire Terrier and a few cats. Emi usually keeps her distance from pets, but she made an exception for the Yorkie — maybe a sign she’s warming to the idea of one day having her own!

Day 4 – Baiona to Vigo

The sunshine stuck around, setting the tone for another great day. It’s amazing how much the weather shapes your attitude on a bike.

The ride out of Baiona was smooth and scenic — bike paths hugging the beaches and wetlands alive with birdlife. A few kilometers later, we joined an Ecovia trail that followed a forest stream, cutting straight through Vigo. Such a peaceful way to enter the city.

We reached our hotel at 1:30, but the room wasn’t ready, so we did a quick change in the lobby restroom before heading to our favorite Mexican restaurant, Cactus.

Since we know Vigo well from past trips, we hit our usual spots — especially Mash, the city’s best craft beer bar. Dinner took us somewhere new: Pineapple Café, a Colombian restaurant with a strange name but absolutely stellar food. Big flavors, high quality — it’s now on our must-return list.

The next day was our only rest day of the tour, and we made the most of it. Brunch was epic: eggs benedict over tortilla española and pistachio cream pancakes. That feast powered us nearly all day.

Laundry came next. On these tours, we each carry two cycling kits and two casual outfits, so a proper wash feels like luxury.

Vigo on Sunday felt sleepy — most shops and many cafés were closed. Spain takes rest days seriously, even more so than Portugal. We still managed to eat well: an empanada and carrot cake for an afternoon snack, then poke bowls for dinner at the mall’s food court.

Even though we called it a rest day, we ended up walking about 10 km, exploring the city and stumbling upon ancient castros — pre-Roman ruins near the fort overlooking Vigo. Quiet streets didn’t stop us from enjoying the day off the bikes.

Day 5 – Vigo to Pontevedra

The bikes weren’t going to ride themselves to Santiago, so it was back to work. We started the day with Venezuelan arepas from a nearby bakery — just as delicious as the ones from the previous night.

We felt rested and ready for a long day. Getting out of Vigo was hectic, but once we reached the countryside, calm returned. Light rain fell for a few hours — just enough to break out the rain jackets. Spirits stayed high.

The route wound through a forest along a dirt road, dotted with waterfalls and old fountains offering rest for pilgrims. Then came a steep, sketchy descent — no stopping, just careful control and a bit of skidding — but we made it safely.

Lunch in Arcade under blue skies fueled us for the climb out of town. I recognized the rocky ascent from our 2019 Camino — the same ancient path carved with wagon ruts. This time, panniers slowed us down, so we hiked more sections, but we made steady progress to the top.

Road construction near Pontevedra forced us onto a detour meant for walkers, not bikes — muddy, swampy, and full of roots. We turned back, consulted our Garmin, and found a safer road. A bike path eventually led us straight to our hotel.

Some people love Pontevedra. We don’t. Two local breweries disappointed us, and the food was no better. Sometimes it’s better to pay for an uneaten meal and walk away than risk food poisoning. Pontevedra literally left a bad taste in our mouths.

Day 6 – Pontevedra to Padrón

Sunshine returned as we rode through Caldas de Reis, admiring murals and a medieval bridge draped in willows.

By afternoon, we reached Padrón and checked into a newly renovated guesthouse. Bright and modern, it had private bathrooms and plenty of charm. The only drawback: we stored our bikes in the entryway, and because the building lacked an elevator, we climbed four flights to our room.

Padrón peppers for lunch were a must along with scallops, and rustic bread. Simple, fresh, and perfect.

Day 7 – Padrón to Santiago de Compostela

Sunshine and warm air greeted us — a fitting finale. Only 25 km stood between us and Santiago, though the hills ensured it wasn’t easy.

We arrived early, thinking our room was ready — until we opened the door. Emi screamed. A naked man lay on the bed while a woman emerged from the bathroom draped only in a towel. First time that has ever happened to us and hopefully the last.

The front desk moved us to another room, and we made sure to use the extra lock 🙂

Afterward, we celebrated — we completed the Camino de Santiago! Cold beers, cathedral photos with fellow pilgrims, and a stop at the Pilgrim Office to register and collect our certificates capped off a perfect moment.

Day 8 – Santiago and Home

Our final morning in Santiago was calm and warm. We strolled through parks and the university campus at a very leisurely pace.

Carl met us for lunch at a steakhouse. It was my first steak since moving to Europe. Emi and I shared a ribeye cooked to a perfect medium. Outstanding.

After lunch, we picked up the bikes and met Carl at his car. He’d driven all the way from Braga in his Škoda EV to give us a ride home — a true lifesaver.

Final Thoughts

This Camino route remains one of my favorites. You never feel alone — fellow pilgrims, cafés, and friendly locals always surround you.

Understanding more of the language and culture this time made the journey even richer.

Most vacations leave me happy to be home. However, this one left me inspired, full of memories, laughter, challenges, and accomplishments. The Camino reminds me why I love bikepacking: adventure, reflection, and community rolled into one.

Buen Camino — until the next ride.  Bye for now.