This road trip has taken a year to plan. Ever since one of our hiking friends told us about Picos de Europa in Spain, we have eagerly anticipated exploring the area. Why not turn it into an epic road trip? We originally intended to be on the road for three weeks, but spoiler alert—we only managed two weeks before we felt overwhelmed by dining out and being away from home. Don’t get me wrong; we had a great time, but staying in hotels and eating out for every meal can become exhausting. We visited almost all the spots we saved as Points of Interest (POIs) in our handy custom Google Map, including Asturias, Picos de Europa, Cantabria, and Basque Country. Let’s dive into this journey.

 

Our first stop after leaving Braga was Ourense, where we enjoyed the Termas Outariz hot springs. The Japanese “onsen” style pools offered varying temperatures, including a cold plunge. We really loved this place and will definitely return.

 

Since we didn’t make any reservations on this trip, we had to decide whether to spend the night in Ourense or continue on to Ponferrada. Ourense didn’t seem particularly special, so we opted to head to Ponferrada—and we were glad we did. Ponferrada is a charming town with a history tied to the Knights Templar. The Order of the Templar built a beautiful castle in the 12th century. The town also features a wonderful historic center full of restaurants, bars, and shops to explore.

 

The next day, we hiked in Parque Natural de Somiedo, a hike that had been on my wish list for some time. It did not disappoint. In Asturias, this regional park shines with stunning granite mountains and lush green valleys. We hiked to a hidden valley filled with grazing cattle—a majestic sight. This location was probably my favorite out of all the more well-known places we visited on this trip.

 

We spent the night in Oviedo, a really nice town with some great parks, including a floral calendar where gardeners change the flowers every morning to spell out the current date. We decided to stay an extra day to have time to visit the Senda del Oso—a 50 km rail-to-trail path for hikers and cyclists that runs through Asturias. The path follows a small river and winds between towering mountain peaks, making it very scenic. We rented bikes and rode a good portion of it, passing through tunnels and a few small villages. We stopped in one village for lunch and a beer. There is also a brown bear sanctuary, which aims to reintroduce bears to the wild in the area. If you enjoy cycling, I highly recommend this part of Asturias.

Next, we reached Gijón, a favorite among visitors to Asturias. However, we didn’t find it impressive. Perhaps it was because it was a Saturday, and the town felt overcrowded, especially with loud partygoers. Everyone congregated in the streets to drink and have fun. That was a cool experience for a while, but as the atmosphere became increasingly chaotic, I quickly wanted to move on. We had difficulty finding food because we arrived outside of typical dining hours. If you know anything about Spain, if you don’t eat lunch between noon and 3 PM or dinner after 8 PM, you pretty much go hungry! Luckily, we stumbled upon a wine bar with a kitchen that stayed open, and we enjoyed some delicious seafood tapas. The hotels in Gijón felt expensive—it just seemed like the town was over-hyped and under-delivered.

 

Finally, we reached the famed Picos de Europa, one of Spain’s National Parks. Our first stop was Lagos de Covadonga. The road opened only to authorized vehicles, so we hopped on a bus from Cangas de Onís. The bus driver navigated the narrow, winding road with impressive skill. We found ourselves at a high elevation, and visibility remained limited, so we didn’t see distant peaks and valleys. However, the views of the lakes and surrounding landscapes still captivated us, creating a peaceful scene. We hiked around the lakes and enjoyed an incredible lunch of meatballs and cheese at a rustic stone restaurant. Asturian cheese tastes quite delightful! While we dined, the clouds rolled in, and we couldn’t even see the lake just a few hundred meters away!

 

We spent the night back in Cangas de Onís, a small mountain town with a relaxed ambiance. We splurged on our hotel that night—opting for a suite with a large jacuzzi tub. I put a bit too much bubble bath in the water, and once the jets started, they nearly filled the entire bathroom with suds! Perhaps that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but you get the idea 🙂 After cleaning up that mess, we enjoyed the rest of our evening. The breakfast at the hotel ranked among the best we’ve ever had, featuring various pinchos-style small bites that included pancakes, crepes, sausages, cheeses, and jams. So delicious!

 

We did another hike in Picos de Europa starting from Bulnes, an isolated little village nestled among massive mountain peaks. You can only access it on foot or via funicular through the mountain. We took the funicular, which offered a unique experience—especially going through solid rock, which felt quite chilly and refreshing. However, the trail itself proved difficult, and we turned back after a few kilometers since it was very rocky and slippery. The incredible views truly made up for it. We had lunch back in Bulnes, where we enjoyed cider sangria and some award-winning goat cheese. The blue cheese carried a particularly strong flavor. Although served with marmalade to help balance its pungent taste, it still tasted too intense for my liking.

 

That night, we stayed in Santander, located in the Cantabria region of Spain. It quickly became our favorite city, even more so than Bilbao or San Sebastian, which we would visit soon! We indulged in some excellent pinchos, but unfortunately, something Emi ate didn’t sit well with her. This situation presents one of the challenges we face during longer trips—too much restaurant food doesn’t always agree with us. Nonetheless, we loved exploring the main city market, strolling along the waterfront, and discovering many fabulous cafés.

 

On our way to Bilbao, we visited the Altamira Museum. The Altamira cave gained fame for its prehistoric cave paintings, primarily depicting bison and horses. The artistry and the endurance of these paintings for millennia astonished me. Although a limited number of people can access the cave each year for preservation purposes, the museum features a full-scale replica. I felt it provided a great, realistic experience.

 

Now, on to the Basque Country and Bilbao! We had dreamed of visiting Bilbao for many years, inspired by pictures of the Guggenheim and its modern architecture. We imagined living there, drawn by the milder climate compared to Valencia and the smaller crowds relative to Madrid or Barcelona. However, reality didn’t quite meet our expectations. Don’t get me wrong, we enjoyed our time in Bilbao, but the modern area felt relatively small, and the rest of the city resembled many other towns we had visited in Spain. The Guggenheim amazed us. We took a city tour by bicycle, and our guide provided fantastic suggestions for the best pinchos in town, which definitely lived up to his praise! And, of course, you can’t visit Basque Country without trying their cheesecake—pure perfection in its simplicity.

 

We then headed to San Sebastián, which felt like a more upscale version of Bilbao. Known as a foodie paradise, the city offers endless options for bars and restaurants. While we enjoyed more pinchos, we did experience pincho burnout. San Sebastián provides a lovely city to explore on foot, featuring numerous parks and gardens along the beach promenade. The view from the small amusement park atop the hill justifies the price of the funicular ride. We were lucky to be in town for the farmer’s market, where we found great items, including a new handcrafted backpack for Emi and delicious anise-flavored mini doughnuts. I had to go back for seconds! Like the Basque cheesecake, these treats featured simple preparation yet tasted incredible.

 

It was now time to start making our way back home. Since we had traveled slowly, we remained only about 7.5 hours away from Braga. We decided to split the drive into two days with a stopover in León. On our way to León, we stopped at a truck stop café in Briviesca, which, aside from the surrounding farms and farmhouses, seemed to be the only notable place in the village. Sometimes, the most unlikely locations offer something special. It was here that we enjoyed one of our best meals of the trip. Though it wasn’t fancy—a goat cheese salad, hibiscus iced tea, and chocolate mousse for dessert—it tasted incredible. Go figure!

 

León definitely felt warmer than the Green Coast. We found a lovely city park along one side of the river, providing a nice place to rest and relax in the shade. I used to think a significant difference existed between dry and humid heat, but hot is hot! Sure, you don’t feel as sticky, and the air doesn’t seem as oppressive in dry heat, but you still get sweaty. For me, being hot puts me in a bad mood. The main church in León impressed me. After exploring the historic district, we found an international beer bar with a great selection of draft beers from around the world—mostly Belgian and German—our favorites! As we enjoyed some olives and drinks, a group of elderly locals came in for a planned social gathering. The more able members of the group assisted those with less mobility. It warmed my heart to see them helping each other and still enjoying life.

 

Well, that wraps up our Green Coast adventure. We enjoyed some nature, explored city life, and tried everything in between. We are back home for a few weeks before heading to a couple of summer concerts in July—Alanis Morissette in A Coruña and Nine Inch Nails, Muse, and others in Lisbon. Stay cool, my friends, and bye for now!