Preparation and Logistics

The southernmost region of Portugal is called “Algarve,” which is silly since Algarve derives from an Arabic word meaning “The West.” By calling it “The Algarve,” you essentially say “The The West.” Therefore, I will refer to it simply as Algarve.

 

Algarve’s landscape dazzles with stunning beauty. This area is hot and dry during summer yet remains lush and green despite limited rainfall. The gem lies in the natural caves and rock formations along the coastline. The rocks display shades of red, orange, and yellow, contrasting beautifully with the blue ocean water, creating a breathtaking sight.

 

We planned to drive and transport our bicycles to Algarve. First, though, we needed to outfit them for this longer tour, preparing for varying road conditions and weather we would encounter. My bike needed a rack and panniers, while both needed fenders. Finding compatible fenders for Emi was easy; mine proved much more challenging. Luckily, a Trek dealer in Braga, owned by two brothers (hence the name Bike Brothers), offered assistance. After some trial and error, they came through with an overnight special order, transferred a needed part from one of their bikes, and even handled the installation the night before we intended to head out.

 

Geared up and ready to roll, we began the 6-hour drive to Algarve. Once we passed the outskirts of Lisbon, open land stretched out for the rest of the drive. We enjoyed lunch in a little farm town at an Indian restaurant. Our expectations weren’t high, but the food surprised us—it was delicious! The vegetarian samosas tasted so good. The extra weight from the bikes significantly reduced the car’s fuel efficiency. We ended up spending about 100€ on fuel and another 50€ on tolls—one way, ouch!

 

We planned for a 5-day tour, starting from the westernmost point of Algarve in the town of Sagres, and ending at the easternmost town, Vila Real de Santo Antonio, near the border with Spain. Since the rail line terminates in Lagos, which is how we planned to return, we would leave the car there and spend two days cycling an out-and-back route from Lagos to Sagres.

 

Ride Day 1: Lagos-Sagres

The route proved super hilly, featuring some steep climbs, including one that hit a brutal 22% grade. I managed to tackle it without walking, but it nearly killed me! However, the perfect weather and stunning scenery made up for the struggle. Sagres, a chill beach town, offered a vibrant atmosphere with many caravans camping near the beaches and lots of surfers catching waves. We even found a brewery and enjoyed some small bites and nice brews.

 

Ride Day 2: Sagres-Lagos

We enjoyed a fantastic breakfast at an artisanal bakery and coffee shop, transporting us back to our Portland, Oregon, USA days. Finding a good bagel in Portugal can prove challenging, so having a decent bagel sandwich felt like a rare treat. Instead of bagels, most brunch spots serve toasts topped with various ingredients and flavors. The fresh bread does make a nice substitute for a bagel.

 

Although we expected a bit of rain today, it ended up raining throughout most of the ride. Our rain gear performed admirably, and our new fenders worked perfectly. It felt satisfying to see our gear function properly. We managed to stay dry, and when the sun finally emerged, we peeled off our rain jackets and pants, feeling free as birds. The high spirits carried us for the final 30 minutes back into Lagos.

 

Ride Day 3: Lagos-Albufeira – CANCELLED

The rain from yesterday marked just the beginning of a larger storm—big winds, torrential downpours, and localized flooding. Attempting to ride proved too dangerous and miserable, so we decided to take a break and stay off the bikes for the next two days, which coincided with our designated rest day. Instead, we headed to the mall to watch Gladiator 2—meh. The next day, we hiked in a nature park surrounding Praia Coelha, soaking in amazing views of sea cliffs and caves. Possibly my favorite place on the trip. A nice sense of serenity washed over me as I sat and watched the waves crash against the cliffs, creating sparkling sea spray.

 

Ride Day 4: Albufeira-Faro

The storm passed, leaving behind much less ominous skies. Time to get back on the bikes! The next town, Vilamoura, showcased a world-class marina filled with luxury yachts and lined with high-end restaurants and shops. We then entered a vast community of golf resorts called Vale de Lobo. The amount of excess and luxury astounded us in this part of Algarve. This area felt like a billionaire’s playground—marinas, golf resorts, and modern mansions on a scale I have never seen. Some people enjoy luxury possessions and extravagance, but I prefer to walk around unnoticed in my hoodie and jeans, visit local dive bars, and live a simple life that affords me the things I love whenever I want.

 

We continued our ride to Faro and finally escaped the billionaire playground, entering a wonderful wetlands nature park. A boardwalk transversed the park and made for peaceful travel. We met a French couple who had bikepacked since September, following the reverse route of the Camino de Santiago and jumping on EuroVelo 1 the rest of the way. It feels great to meet other people who share our passion for cycling.

 

We enjoyed a fun evening in Faro. This town suited us better, as it felt like a place where locals live. The cool, gritty, artsy vibe impressed us with local artisan markets, including one in an old warehouse complete with DJ spinning records. We stumbled upon many street murals – a nice place to explore without an agenda or set destination.

 

Did I mention how glad we were to have fenders on our bikes for this tour? They saved our butts, literally, along with our gear, protecting us from water, mud, and sand. Keeping our drivetrains free of sand also proved challenging. In the end, they held up well.

 

Ride Day 5: Faro-Vila Real de Santo António

On our last ride day, we had sights on our final destination of Vila Real de Santo António and the Spanish border. The eastern Algarve contrasts starkly with the luxury and foreign-owned western half. Instead of luxury pleasure yachts, we saw marinas filled with fishing boats. This would turn into our longest ride day, clocking in at 70 km along a combination of challenging dirt paths and smooth, easy pavement. Some parts of the Ecovia (another name for “trail” in Portugal) washed out from the recent flooding. While the water receded in most areas, one section was still unpassable, requiring us to backtrack to the main road. We enjoyed an excellent platter of sushi for lunch, and after some discussion, decided to stay on the main road for the rest of the way. Fueled by a big lunch, we made really good time and reached the hotel earlier than I expected. We celebrated completing this adventure with great local craft beers and an Irish dinner.

 

The next day, we took our bikes on the Algarve train line back to Albufeira and then rode the short 6 km distance from the train station back to our waiting car. Mission complete. Yesterday’s 70 km ride exhausted us, so we felt happy to be off the bikes for the rest of the trip. One snafu occurred during our train ride. The tickets and timetable suggested we would need to transfer trains in Faro to reach Albufeira. After unloading the bikes in Faro and looking around, we quickly realized no other train awaited at the station. I asked an employee, and she told us to hurry back on board—this train travels to the end of the line in Lagos. We scrambled back onto the train with the bikes just in time. Whew, disaster averted! Lifting those bikes off and on through the cargo door without a ramp proved challenging—it took both of us. I truly don’t know how people manage to do it alone.

 

Day Trip: Évora

We decided to split the 6-hour drive back home into 2 days, spending the night in Évora, located in the Alentejo region of Portugal. Alentejo boasts quality wines, olive oils, and many orchards of cork trees—fertile soil for farms and grazing. In Évora, we enjoyed some local craft beers, of course 🙂 We visited the Roman Temple, which remains quite well preserved for Roman ruins outside of Rome. Our final tourist activity before heading home included a stop at the Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones). Human bones adorn the chapel’s interior. At first, the various design patterns made from different bones fascinated us. However, at one point, Emi and I found ourselves alone in the chapel, and it started to feel extra creepy — time to skedaddle 🙂 The chapel intended to show how temporary or insignificant our lives are on Earth. In the end, we are just a pile of bones, but if you believe in God, then you are more—your soul lives on forever in Heaven. What an interesting strategy to scare people into faith 🙂

 

Final Words

Well, that caps our latest adventure in Portugal/Europe. I hope you enjoy reading our story and perhaps find inspiration to visit these places or even travel by bicycle. Next up…Athens, Greece. Stay tuned…