Most people visit Warsaw or Kraków on their first trip to Poland, but we decided to take the road less traveled. In fact, we ended up so far off the beaten path that local residents frequently asked us, “What are you doing here? How did you even hear about this part of Poland?” While Emi doesn’t always share my thrill for the unknown, I love skipping the tourist hubs to experience how locals truly live and eat.

 

Our adventure took us to the Podlaskie region along the Green Velo cycling route. A few months ago, I had never even heard of Podlaskie. While flying home from Italy, I spotted an ad on a Ryanair overhead bin reading, “Come visit Podlaskie.” Once home, I searched for things to do in the area, and the Green Velo popped up right away. When a bike tour is involved it doesn’t take much to convince me.  Lets go!!

We landed late to Warsaw Airport, stayed overnight at a surprisingly great airport hotel, and caught a morning train from the city center bound for Białystok.

 

Getting Rolling: Białystok to Waniewo

Ride Day 0 & 1

We picked up our rental bikes, fitted our gear, adjusted our setups, and grabbed dinner at a local brewpub. The amazing craft beers and food set high expectations, even if our street-facing room forced us to sleep with earplugs.

The next morning, we fueled up on one of the best hotel breakfasts I’ve ever eaten—I instantly fell in love with Polish breakfast culture. We pedaled toward Waniewo through endless stretches of peaceful farmland. Our accommodations for the night were underwhelming: a small farm guesthouse miles away from any town, surrounded only by neighboring fields.

We lounged in the apple orchard until dinner arrived at 6:00 PM sharp. Although we had no idea what the kitchen would serve, the meal blew us away: roasted chicken, boiled potatoes drizzled in olive oil, fresh-baked bread, and a crisp salad of fermented cabbage and carrots. While the outdated room and low quality linens made us a little nervous about future lodgings, at least the food did not disappoint.

 

Going Off the Grid: Waniewo to Płoski

Ride Day 2

Our route to Płoski wound through rolling farms, dense pine forests, quiet river valleys, and tiny hamlets. We stopped for a mid-ride coffee at a charming creek-side campsite, where the reality of our route truly set in. Unlike our previous bikepacking trips in Germany, Spain, or Portugal—where you’re never far from a village café or market—this route proved extremely rural. We quickly learned to carry daily provisions in case we didn’t encounter another settlement before our final stop.

Płoski consisted mostly of quiet residential streets, with two hotels sitting on the outskirts. Our accommodation turned out to be a spacious country event venue used for regional weddings—a massive upgrade from the night before. Better yet, the lobby fridge sat fully stocked with cold craft beers.

 

When the owner offered us a shot of his homemade whiskey, I hesitated, expecting a harsh burn. To my surprise, it went down super smooth. By 3:00 PM, starving after hours in the saddle, we begged for an early bite. The owner had his son—the house chef—whip up a hot plate of pierogis. These stuffed dumplings are a Polish staple, and I could easily eat them every single day.

 

Dinner followed at 6:00 PM (I am seeing a pattern here): a rich soup and kotlet schabowy, a delicious Polish take on traditional schnitzel or the original Italian Cotoletta alla Milanese.

 

Into the Primeval Forest: Płoski to Białowieża

Ride Day 3 & 4

Day 3 took us toward Białowieża. We paused for lunch at Smaki Podlasia in Hajnówka, where we ordered two new regional specialties: kartacze (large potato dumplings packed with savory meat) and placek drwala (hearty shepherd’s goulash served over a crispy potato pancake). Both tasted incredible.

Our Białowieża resort reminded me of the historic McMenamins properties in the Pacific Northwest. The grounds featured lush gardens, an on-site craft brewery, and a full spa with a thermal pool and jacuzzi that worked wonders on our tired legs.

Day 4 offered a shorter, scenic ride through Białowieża National Park, giving us time to explore the wildlife reserve. We spotted European bison, wild horses, and wolves under clear, sunny skies. After refueling with lunch pizza and craft beer, we returned to the same restaurant that evening to enjoy khachapuri (a molten Georgian cheese bread) paired with smooth Georgian wine.

Lessons from the Trail: Food & Local Culture

This tour proved far more isolated than I initially anticipated. Endless farmland dominated the first two days, though colorful Orthodox churches and sleepy villages broke up the monotony. The ride peaked as we entered the national park, where forest gravel roads replaced rural pavement.

Polish cuisine stood out as a clear highlight of the trip:

• Ingredient Quality: Local farms supply most of the meats, cheeses, breads, and produce, giving every dish incredible flavor.  And I need to make special mention of the horseradish sauce — nice strong flavor but not overly spicy.  I couldn’t get enough and had to order extra to accompany any meat dish.
• Supermarket Fuel: Polish granola bars put standard energy bars to shame. Packed with sweet honey, rich dried fruit, and a thick chocolate base, they make the ultimate cycling snack.

 

Rain, Rest, and the Sanatorium: Białowieża to Supraśl

Ride Day 5

Heavy rain soaked the morning of Day 5. I usually take pride in reading radar maps to dodge storm cells, calculating that we could wait until noon and only ride through an hour of light showers. However, Emi wanted to skip the wet weather entirely after four consecutive days on the bike.

 

When our Polish friends offered us two seats in their transport van, we took them. Taking a SAG vehicle always pains my pride, but my knee was aching, and a rest day made sense for both of us.

 

We spent the afternoon exploring Supraśl, sampling fresh Polish donuts (pączki), visiting the riverfront, and relaxing in our hotel spa. The hotel itself carries a fascinating history: it has operated as a health sanatorium for nearly a century. During the Industrial Revolution, city dwellers from polluted Warsaw escaped to Supraśl’s clean air to cure respiratory ailments. Today, locals still come here for recovery therapy, so dining at breakfast next to elderly guests on a wellness holiday was an unusual experience.

Before cycling back to Białystok on our final morning, we toured the Supraśl Orthodox Monastery. Bold, colorful frescoes covered the interior walls and ceilings, creating an aesthetic that felt almost like a superhero comic book.

Returning to Białystok & Exploring Warsaw

Pedaling back into Białystok wrapped up another successful international bikepacking tour. Despite the logistical hurdles of rural navigation, nothing beats seeing a country from the saddle of a bike.

We finished our journey with two days in Warsaw. The city blew us away with its lively subcultures, specialty coffee shops, top-tier food, and thriving craft beer scene. While Warsaw’s dark historical chapters carry immense heartbreak, the post-war reconstruction created a modern, pedestrian-friendly metropolis. Walking through the rebuilt Old Town felt surreal; the cathedrals and palaces look centuries old, yet their pristine masonry reveals their mid-20th-century origins—almost like a historic European set inside a Las Vegas resort. It stands as a testament to the resilience of the Polish people.

From helpful locals using Google Translate to guide us through language gaps to incredible meals in rural villages, Poland delivered an unforgettable adventure. We will definitely be back.

 

Bye for now…